Category Archives: report

Zero Waste Pattern making

Inspired by trashed-a documentary film about something that we buy, we burn, and we bury..that are the pile and pile of junks, polluting our earth-this Zero Waste pattern making workshop I attended to, was definitely ‘something’ to me. Since fashion has become the second largest contributor to trash littering, ever since industrial era had replaced man work with machine, then slow fashion emerged into a fast fashion, a pattern making process has been always producing waste. There are 400 billion m2 clothing  produced every year in the world, and 15% of them 60.000.000.000 m2 to be exact are the waste. Let alone 350,54 km2 Surabaya city can be covered entirely  by not only one hell of a vast fabric but 171 times. From  60.000.000.000 m2 fabric waste  we can possibly get 9 t-shirt per year out of it. Therefore, designers as well as  academics as  the ‘green agents’ was pushed their limit through their inventions to solve the problem.

The objective was to use every single part of the material fabric when create a pattern, so that it leaves zero waste.

Me and the ‘mother of fashion in Surabaya’ sooo honored to sit next to her :))

Bu Aryani Widagdo such an inspirational educationist, breathe fashion in her lungs, had done so many research to conduct this workshop and moreover to transfer this life changing knowledge. With giants on her shoulders-great designers such as Julian Roberts,  Zandra Rhodes, Simone Austen, Holly McQuillan, and Timo Rissanen as her benchmarks, she taught how to apply zero waste concept within more than 5 pattern examples that every one of the participants had to experience making it, she even gave  us challenge to redesign a pattern of our nasional dress-Kebaya- embracing the objective of zero waste at the end of the workshop.

Julian Robert was one of the extraordinaire fashion designer introduced the concept of subtraction cutting, on his book that he keened  to share to world he told that he would never stop invent and share what he had done to the audience, in doing so, he managed to reach 20 universities and giving live demonstrations to over 17 countries and this was apparently a green light to bu Aryani Widagdo to accept the stick and passing it on to other audiences in Indonesia, start with Surabaya. Below are some the pages of his book “Free Cutting”

And here are some of the magnificent subtraction cutting pattern bu Aryani shared in the workshop created by Julian Roberts,  Zandra Rhodes, Simone Austen, Holly McQuillan, and Timo Rissanen (copyright by Ariyani Widagdo).

design by Holly McQuillan
design by Timo Rissanen
design by Simone Austen

This workshop has imprinted something on me, and I definitely want to know more about green fashion, since this subject is parallel with Kate Fletcher and Lynda Grose ” Fashion and Sustainability Design for Change” I die to read for. Thank you bu Aryani for sharing this new way of thinking to me..

 

 

 

Je Ne Sais Quoi part 2

The queen of gender and feminism, a friend of mine Aniendya alongside with her cute ‘couture’ artwork “Yoni”
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVL_SEWjjg6/

The crowd was crazy and the exhibition had been extended right by then..it happened longer than it used to be on the poster. This time most of the artwork had something that innovative, interactive and edgy. A honorable mention were the SuBo-stand for Suro and Boyo-an awesome 3D-printed character of the urban folktale animal of Surabaya created by my college who’s also happen to be my boss-Pak Aris  (https://www.instagram.com/subosuroboyo/) , and a versatile algorithmic 3D simulated paper craft  hanging on the wall, a reminiscence of  its creator’s visage worth to acclamation-“Selepas Belantara” by Erandaru Srisanto. BUT the Mirror on the wall said that the fairest of them all was the one and only..the one that also stole the most press attention was Cindy and Piyok’s work..

That was the majestic optical illusion shadow playing mock up of Surabaya’s city scrappers-“KOTAKITA”. Even the best part was that they built up the mini version of the famous features in Surabaya, such as BNI tower, Graha Pena, Tugu Pahlawan and The historical Jembatan Merah. Nodded envy-ly this work rocked the event, they stole the spotlight! Off course from the moment the exhibition was opened ’till the last day this event was ever happened, the press just kept coming again and again, and it was definitely become ‘the face’ on every headlines these journalists ever wrote about.

 

Je Ne Sais Quoi “Kotakukotakita” Exhibition at House of Sampoerna part 1

Je Ne Sais Quoi is an expression to describe something that someone really attached to it and become so hopelessly fascinated that he/she ‘s not able to explain what’s ‘the thing’ that makes something so special..A depression in a good way, it also means that when something is so wrong it’s right.

The Jargon above  is probably familiar in the context of Fashion. it almost a coincidence I read this savy pocket book-I forget the title was- and all of sudden this France phrase got me attention..Je Ne Sais Quoi then became the name of my artwork this year, in an venture of Visual Communication Design department and House of Sampoerna celebrated 274th Surabaya anniversary on May 2017. Kotakukotakita is the big theme that’s going to bring this exhibition to the next level.

Some of the art pieces are interactive and in advance of technology. There will be an optical illusion playing with shadows and lights projected onto 3D model city scape of Surabaya, another art work is a mini sculpt molded through Blender (3D animation engine) and run into a 3D printing. Mine is mindblowingly goes side by side with the other two ‘back to the future’ works, a-virtual reality-scape showing Tunjungan Plaza Surabaya  in 360 panoramic view,  along side these there exotic-skinned fashion figures posing fiercely through the lens of Google cardboard. One can experience being inside the environment and seeing the 3D model of Tunjungan Plasa city scape but in a fashionable way.

Je Ne Sais Quoi Google Cardboard

Imitating the model pose while loading all the artwork for the exhibition at House of Sampoerna

Scan the QR code on the poster within my artwork and download the VR-scape on your phone. Place the phone in the Google cardboard, activate it and Voila!! step into the VR environment.

I’ll update you guys latter..see you on the  next report about the press con followed up with the opening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meeting Up with Embran Nawawi

Call of duty preparing curriculum  for fashion program under the Visual Communication Design  department brought together me and Embran Nawawi along with my colleges at Petra Christian University where I work. The program will be opened in 2017 as well as the new building-called P2 on the west side of P building-operate next year..
During the conversation with the multi talented Embran I learnt a lot about fashion..the craft and textile graduate explained so much on how fashion design today should be brought to creative industry and that Indonesian designers should understand thoroughly about tradition or heritage to be on  his/her work as an emphasis, not just as a banal creation..it has to have values.
And about the sustainability fashion as a theme for our fashion program, he opened my eyes that being ‘sustainable’ wasn’t  only about economy or Eco design with zero waste and no chemicals added. It was beyond than that, for example batik coloring, batik with a good quality color tended to have a chemical processes behind it, the chemical mixing color would enhance the tint on batik, yet it’s more economical. Batik with natural dyeing such as black indigo or orange from Mengkudu fruit will be tagged for a higher price, yet to deliver it  is surprisingly not environmental friendly at all. It could take many trees and other important natural resources  to be cut and crushed just to dyeing very little amount of fabric, imagine how many trees and soils  we destroy if we wanted to dye more material? He continued. Such information these ‘go green’ activists never share to us..after all this time I thought that being green was to stop using chemicals at all..I didn’t think that far, all I knew was the ‘propaganda’ of natural dyeing against the chemical one.’

Natural dyeing with black bean
Dip dyeing process

Anyway as for fashion design curriculum he told us to prepare with credible lecturers who knew well about fashion, it’s core concepts and trend forecasting, off course one of them would definitely be mas Embran himself, hehe…how cool is that to have him as a lecturer of fashion design Petra Christian University.

Embran Nawawi batik designer (C) shows new innovation of Maduranese stamp batik collection on October 1, 2013 in Surabaya, Indonesia. UNESCO give recognition and formally endorsed Indonesian Batik as a World Cultural Heritage on October 2, 2009 and the date used as the Batik Day. Courtesy of www.zimbio.com

My next task is to make a power point presentation, brought all the knowledge above-sustainable fashion, creative industry and traditional textile, include the curriculum  on to the slides. I’m gonna make that very each slide bombastic, tantalizing and awesome enough so that the foundation will be more convinced to activate fashion design department soon.

 

Any useful information about dip dyeing and batik is to log on to http://www.thelanguageofcloth.com/

Paper Dolls in Gloria Kindergarten

It was fun to giving a short course to the teachers of GLORIA kindergarten how to make paper dolls,together with a friend of mine bu Maya. We made lots of characters like animals, plants, human or even a plane! The training would  eventually help the kids to pour their creativity on to the paper as a media using their  motor skills. They could use not only papers  but  any material they may find nearby.

IMG_2852 IMG_2865The class went a little bit ‘out of control’ seemed we all forget that the craftsmanship should be made simple coordinated with the children’s skill, yet we made it too moderate  because it was too fun to do-it brought out the ‘wild side of our self’- every person has his/her own character to make..hahaha

Again,posed with all the teachers and bu Kim,the headmaster

IMG_2874 IMG_2873
Time flew quickly as we kept making these easy figures again and again..
And it ended it up like this (pic below) pile of paper dolls..haha
IMG_1597

Bu Maya and I Posed together with the 'collection'
Bu Maya and I Posed together with the ‘collection’

I couldn’t  wait to come back here again, bu Kim and all the teachers treated us so well, these people worked systematically, thoroughly and  full of effort that I believe the children are in a good hands. This is by far the most memorable service learning I’ve never forget! Talk to myself that time: “Oi this kindergarten is so cool, you’ll be studied here later when you 4.”